A Look at the Portuguese World

 

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Yvette Vieira

Yvette Vieira

Saturday, 29 December 2012 19:47

Sparkle in the summer

One of the major trends for summer 2012 are the shines.

The sparkles are one of the influences that have flooded the international runways, with materials such as latex, vinyl, metals, the sequins and crystals are back, making recall the futuristic silhouette of the 60s led by Pierre Cardin and Andre Courrèges. It's the wave of shimmering that you can use in the warm evenings of summer. If you like the floral theme, you can also use and abuse of this style of clothes because spring came back in force. It is perhaps one of the strongest trends of this summer. Although the Portuguese do not like prints with strong hues and large sizes many patterns this year are more prudent, the flowers are smaller and discreet colors are a national flavor. White is the color highlight of the vacation season, from head the toe, a trend that is seen in more stylized looks. It is a tone that looks good in any woman, no matter what they say, especially on burnets. Another technique that goes back several centuries of fashion is the tie-dye effect. With a traditional origin notably in the Asian and African cultures it simply involves a process of tie and dye the clothes to your liking, i.e., tie a randomly fabric and dye color in it, or use bleach. This year, the gradient palette ranges from various shades ranging from the ice cream green to the most electric color that you can remember, a clear reference to the hippie movement, but with a more chic touch, less tribalism, since is betting on fine fabrics such as silks and satins. There are plenty to choose from and although this is a year of crisis, you can take ideas to recycle some part of your last season clothes, or do it yourself, dye clothes with the colors of this season and create new patterns to your liking.

Saturday, 29 December 2012 19:42

The journey

It was the beginning of the dazzling musical career of Pedro Abrunhosa and the pandemonium, a debut album with jazz influences.

The year was 1994, but could have been last week, when the first album of Pedro Abrunhosa and the pandemonium had its debut. From the beginning the pace of these trip, was felt deep in the shadows of the night on the bars of the city of Oporto. The song, "I cannot live like this anymore" was one of the most popular on the dance floor and I can assure this, because I was there. It was a different sound that hit the mixing tables of the DJ's and the local radio airwaves. Everyone heard it! Interestingly this record terminated with some of the hegemony of Anglo-Saxon music that was heard everywhere. Nobody knew for sure who he was; I remember the name circulated word of mouth, until the mystery vanished when he first appeared on television, now with his brand image, the famous sunglasses. And success was even more overwhelming. With its jazzy sound, which, moreover, we can hear it throughout the entire album, with songs that ​​delight it even more the public, such us "you have to take it easy / giving up your body for your soul. And the same can be said of "help / I'm falling in love / is impossible to resist such charm." The ballad "I give you everything" contributed to increase the national birth rate at that time and there is little doubt about that, just listen. It is still one of the most iconic songs of his career as a singer and the most beautiful poems Peter Abrunhosa wrote. It's an album that I cherish the most, because it is the soundtrack of my lost youth that I remembered with great affection to the sound of this journey.
http://www.abrunhosa.com/

Saturday, 29 December 2012 19:45

The flor d'ali

The idea came literally of a dream of Lidiane Duailibi. A collection of accessories made of crochet which draws its inspiration in nature. These are earrings, rings and headbands made with passion, in warm hues that complement each other in a simple and elegant way. They are a treat for all of all women.

How do you come up with the idea?
Lidiane Duailibi: It was very funny. When I was a girl I did crochet. My mother lived many years of this art. She put us all doing crochet, there were five of us, the three sisters helped her. I did the most, because I was the oldest. However, in our school we have many children and a girl showed up with a flower in her hair made of crochet. I thought it was cute and said I do one for you, as a present. I slept, I dreamed with whole collection and the next day I decided to buy the lines and make the accessories. So, it was born, from the children I see every day.

What is the meaning of the name?
LD: I like flowers, like fleur-de-lis, of Lidiane, over there. So I decided to put it all together and the name was born. It was first discovered and is one of those names that come by inspiration. It all happened naturally. For the collection no model had to be redone, I never said this is not what I wanted. My daughter, Clara, did a search on the internet and saw many things that had nothing to do with what I am doing, but also served as an inspiration.

Why this lines, this colors?
LD: It's amazing, we have this in our back memory or I imagined. I think it's a lot of my childhood, my mother worked a lot with string, made many networks in crude colors. Hence my choice and I also have many different shades, because this summer is all colorful. There are many orange for children and pink and blue. I chose the more neutral colors that could "dance" freely thru those tones. There are accessories that I like so much, as the one it appears on the logo, which I decided that in all the collections I always have this piece. One or two that will be immortalize.

Saturday, 29 December 2012 19:44

The fenix

Cheyenne tagged a whole generation of young Portuguese who did not go out without this brand of jeans. After a mismanagement that led to the bankruptcy of this prestigious national trade name. Last year was ressurected under the auspices of a new direction with a new image betting on two fronts: in vintage and innovation.

How do you innovate in a collection of Cheyenne?
Débora Sarmento: I am the creative in the clothes deparment of Cheyenne, is the section of which I am responsible. I just do not do jeans, I am responsible for creating the mesh, tricots, the t-shirts and jackets. I inovate using the latest materials, colors, and the new textile dyeing.

These new materials where they came from? Where do you start the search?
DS: The search begins at "primier vision," is a fair of Trends and from there I will also go looking for other influences and materials that can be inserted in the collections.

On average how many pieces you design for the summer collection of 2012?
DS: Two hundred models. I'll bet on a bib with stripes and patches in denim, which is one of the new trends. The perfectos for ladies, it is an aviator jacket and one of the strong images of this season and still dresses with large and small flowers. For man, I created parkas, sailor coats and a biker style with light nylons and fluorescent details. In tones in both collections I used green, mint ice cream and strawberry. Fresh. Still remains the color blocks, for example, indigo and strong electric blue. The more dusty shades such as rusts, pastels, purple and fuchsia.

What have you chose for the new season ahead?
DS: For the season autumn-winter 2012/13 we created as much for women as for men. Meshes are fabricated according to the color of trends, I chose in terms of tones the mustard, navy, purple and the orange color because it is a trade mark of Cheyenne. The meshes I chose include jerseys, viscose and a carbon fabric to give a more wintry air.

What is the new target audience for the brand in feminine terms?
DS: It's a modern woman, sophisticated, discreet, who likes to go out at night and be fashionable. Because is a brand of denim has a vintage spirit. In terms of age range we go from twenties to the forties. There are clothes for all occasions, we do not limit ourselves to a vision that involves only casual wear.

In masculine terms how is the concept reflected?
DS: The men's collection also reflects the themes that I discussed earlier, with many details on the shirts, including patchs, jointed different materials to contrast the wrists.

In this collection what is important?
DS: The vintage spirit. It is a wave that includes denim, with an urban entity. We bet on a comprehensive collection that can be used by many types of people whether day or night. It is Cheyenne, but goes further. Everything changed, then the bet on a change.

The winter collection has your look and a new management that beats again on the stores?
DS: Yes, the collections are on sale at the outlet and one of the biggest bet is the Sea shopping mall, only with the brand Cheyenne. Another that stands out is the online sale, but also we sell the collection to multi-brand stores.

And what's the reception of the general public to this new Cheyenne?
DS: People have not really noticed. Many people go to the store, because they remember the earlier trade mark, the jeans. The brand continues to have a good name and a very strong image.

The old brand exported, currently you have client abroad?
DS: Yes, we continued to sell to France, Spain and of course the domestic market.

Saturday, 29 December 2012 19:42

Mary and her eggs

It is a project of artistic promotion of several Portuguese artisans and some are also Europeans.

The site Mary Mellow is a concept that goes beyond the blog that shows the work envisioned by one person. It is an innovative art project that focuses on creativity of artisans in many different areas who want to show their distinctive products. It is a collective that covers several artists that promote their work by electronic selling. My focus is on the wool, although we are in the spring, I want to highlight the work of Victoria Picon who uses a tradicional loom to create her clothing creations, they are unique pieces of great thoroughness. Pottery is another popular betting of this website for its tremendous color and quality. The works of polystyrene and the houses are two "windows" that show cases fun works to decorate the children's bedrooms. But does are not the only eggs of this chicken, black and very global. There are also items for metrosexuals men and decorations for the home. Although I do not appreciate the picture, I understand the idea of ​​democracy that comes from animal chosen as the brand image.

http://mariamellow.com/produtos/view/51

Saturday, 29 December 2012 19:39

Creating by order

 

Confetil is a Portuguese textile brand that beats on textile innovation. A technological approach that meets the needs of the international market since its customers are all foreigners. The designer Carolina Sousa has the ability to introduce the latest in terms of new materials and trends and adapts them to the requirements of its customers. A survey of materials and industrial processes that is disseminated throughout the entire organization, making it a very competitive company in the demanding world of fashion.

You create collections that you sell the brands. How does this process work?
Carolina Sousa: Yes, I do collections for the company that has several clients, I create one for each client, then they come to see and choose the clothes they want. Many of the pieces are not purchased as it was designed, some are modified, in others are introduce research materials of interest to them.

But how many garments you idealize for a company?
CS: I create as a rule about twenty pieces, but steadily. In a week I do 10, then another ten more, I'm always in contact with our customers; create collections for several other brands and do a side work.

When you create the collections you have in mind the latest fashion trends, or just have in mind what the customer sells? How the creative process does begin?
CS: For the company's own collection I have all the creative freedom, do what I like and of course I always put the latest technological and market trends, such as new dyes. When I create clothes for brands I have in mind what they want, I try to always correspond in that extent.

So, you also sell your own design clothes?
CS: They are not necessarily to sell; the clothes are displayed in the showroom and aims to show innovations, new mesh we produce. It is research material for clients, i.e., they use these materials in different ways depending on your needs and we produce it.

Saturday, 29 December 2012 19:34

The moonspell heart

It's an album that breaks with the style of black metal and lays the foundation for the new sounds of the band.

The Moonspell is the gothic metal band most emblematic of our country. The album Wolf heart was a debut of this group in a new type of sounds, more folk and metal, which consolidated the band's status in the national and international market, since it was a sales success in 1995. The Portuguese influence is the motto of this disc, although some of the songs are written and sung in English, I want to highlight some of the themes of this album.
Lua D'Inverno, winters moon, is a wonderful solo with flute and guitar. The listener does not detect right away that this type of instrumentality comes from a gothic musical band, far from it. It is a beautiful theme, to listen carefully.
Ataegina has a very folk inspiration. The title is the name of a pagan goddess of Lusitanian origin, associated with spring. The letter portrays a black universe, a deity who resorts to revenge and death. But also the rebirth of nature, from the night to the day.
Trebaruna is a theme even more curious by the fact that it is also a Lusitanian deity. It is rather a state of mind, since the origin of its name reminds us of the wisdom of the people. The lyrics are a tribute to life. It is curious that all the scaling of the songs on this CD leads you deeper into the origins of the Portuguese as a people. At its core, the very beginning. Even before the arrival of the so-called civilization.


http://www.myspace.com/moonspell


http://pt-br.facebook.com/moonspellband

Saturday, 29 December 2012 19:35

Nanotecnology ties the world

 

Innovation in the dyeing of garments arises at the University of Minho.

One of the big trends is the ecology and industry is increasingly aware of this social phenomenon that has been growing fruit of climate change and mentalities. It is a global issue that has never been as fashionable as now. But this is not just a transient concept. The market is increasingly demanding serious changes the consumption paradigms, more than that, for products that are less polluting and harmful to the environment. By combining all these results we get? Nanotechnology.

The textile industry is one of the most polluting of the planet due to the conventional dyeing processes that require large amounts of salt, energy and water and in the end they "toast" the rivers and the affluent with dyes that prevent the spreading of light essential for these ecosystems. Taking into account everything I just mentioned earlier, a group of young future scientists considered the possibility of creating a process that would allow dyeing fabrics without polluting the environment and spend less energy resources. The result is nanogreen a microscopic silica particle that is not absorbed by the human skin, which dissolve harmlessly in the water, which means no more pollution and it in terms of industrial processing dispenses large quantities of salt, water and energy. The idea was born at the University of Minho, led by professor of textile engineering, Jaime Gomes and his team of young researchers. With this innovation they seek to change the paradigm of the global industry of dyeing. Several international brands on the lookout for these new technologies have shown great interest in the results of this investigation, since customers are not limited to requiring a label to say environmentally-friendly, they demand for practices that aim to promote sustainable global ecosystem and above all for reasons merely economic the savings are substantial when compared with the conventional dyeing process. Think about his, in a near future when you look at any piece of clothing in your closet, the color behind that garment came from a Portuguese idea. Oh, and the environment thanks!

http://www.ecoticket.pt/

Saturday, 29 December 2012 19:32

The legend of a tie

It is a historical compilation and very summarizes of a key piece of clothing for men.

The widespread use of male-tie results from the vanity of a Frenchman, Louis XIV, the Sun King. The monarch according to the legend liked a lot the effect of a strip of white cambric worn by Croatian soldiers who were camped on the outskirts of Paris. An enchantment that made him commands his royal tailor to copy and adapt it for his finest uniforms. The "innovation" was so beloved by the French who took the fashion and during the following centuries it has undergone changes which involved the use of different node types and the raw materials used in its confection. In the late eighteenth century, the tie was truly worshiped, it involved a complex process of twists and turns that required the expertise of a servant for this purpose. There is even the curious story of Beau Brummell, the greatest dandy of London, which needed a ritual of five hours, you read right, five long hours, before a careful handpicked audience that watched delighted and fascinated the entire complexes work involving the placement of a single tie. Ufff!

Interestingly, in the second half of the nineteenth century, right in the industrial movement that revolutionized the textile industry, a tie appears more functional, longer and narrower, nicknamed "race." This innovation becomes immortal and continues to be the basis of current ties. In 1926, Jesse Langsdorf, a New York inventor, had the idea to cut the tie from a diagonally fabric and to be held it in three parts. Since then, it becomes the modern tie, more elastic and practice. But not always this piece of clothing was powerful in the male closet. If you remember the 60's with the flower power movement in the U.S., the tie was also banned. I do not know if it got to the point of being burned, but failed to appear in the male costume for a while. In the late seventies it returned in force and the 80's is dedicated to this piece clothing. Currently, any man has one or more in his closet it is an essential piece of clothing in the world today. And to think it all started because of the vanity of a king. An act of futility. Who would it thought.

http://www.bonscursos.com/administracao/admvendas/2121-nogravata.pdf

Saturday, 29 December 2012 19:26

With fire in the soul

Reggae for the "souls of fire" is a philosophy of life. A state of consciousness that promotes serenity, joy and respect for others. During these ten years of existence, this band of Jamaican influence sought to pass this message in English, but also in Portuguese. A duality that has always accompanies them, as mentioned in one of the founders of the group, Romano Santos.

Was it difficult to be a Jamaican band in Portugal?
Roman Santos: It was, yes, because reggae was not known and was not very well accepted in the market. There were already a few bands, but we were white and it made our journey more difficult. Over time the music scene has opened up more and now we are known.


Notes differences because the band is based in Oporto and not in Lisbon?
RS: Yes, it is easier in Lisbon. First, is the capital. Second, everything is related to a musical culture that supports more musicians and you don't need to be looking for professionals, because the market there is enormous.


When released your first album, "Souls of Fire-path" almost ten years ago, have you with the impression that you could have done better, that could be improved some aspects?
RS: Yes, after recording all clearly that a person struggles with these issues, you could have done this, that sound could had been changed there, but it is a state of evolution. In terms of concerts, there were many after the album was released, sales were not significant. Young people do not buy the CD rather "get" in the Net, I see that people with more than 30 years old are the ones that bother to buy the product. There is a lot of piracy.


Taking this into consideration, you as a band promote themselves through new technologies?
RS: Yes, we have an official page on the Internet, we seek to update. We have pages on facebook and twitter. On our website can make a few downloads.

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