One more unusual album of the dead combo. The two most alternative duo of Portuguese music, or not?

Suddenly the dead combo are in the mouths of the world literally, thanks to the chef Anthony Bourdain and his "no reservations". The Portuguese, a great majority at least, "discovered" recently the sound of this strange duo who bet on a very vintage image. The international projection was so huge thanks to the culinary program, suddenly the Dead Combo have seen sales of their records improve in the U.S. and the national tour is now epic. His music, however, is another matter. There is something of Tarentino in these sounds that refer us to parallel universes, populated by strange creatures, environments laden with smoke and unusual odors. It remembers everything except Portugal. However, in this album "Lusitania playboys", they underline its provenance. The title seems to say everything, or not? Let's call it a soporific for the ears polluted with instant music. Does well and rests the soul. "Like a drug," is one of my favorite themes. It's just music that I easily see be part of the soundtrack of "Pulp Fiction". Seriously! "Mr. Leone", on the other hand, carries me to the spaghetti western films with Clint Eastwood. Another memory film immerses the "old rock and roll radio," is a chase scene that ends the worst possible way, in a dark alley in New York. I leave the choice of the film at your discretion. But before leaving I remember another very appropriate topic for another scenario, Malibu fair, imagine a long shoot of the side of a plastic city appearing standstill in time, California. Let yourself be carried away by this album so full of sounds that much appeal to the imagination of compulsive moviegoers as is my case. Have fun.

http://deadcombo.net/music/

Bord'arte is an innovative concept that introduces the Madeira embroidery in everyday décor objects. A reinvent tradition of hundreds of years by Maria João Freitas who nurtures a passion for this form of art and does not want to see it lost in time.

Why you decided to create the bord'arte?
Maria João Freitas: I always saw my mother and my aunts embroidering is a form of expression of who we are. It has to do with the locals, with the colors and what we want to show to others. It was an away gift from people who came from outside, tourists and shows part of the cultural wealth of our ancestors. It pains me greatly to see lost this art. People think that the Madeira embroidery is not useful, it is not practical, I tried to give it a modern aspect. I affixed in decorative pieces, because I think people have the idea of ​​embroidery on top of the television and we can change this concept, placing it in another context, the embroidery within a piece of glass, as a piece of decoration, for example.

From the traditional you created a series of decorative products, including a few patchwork balls, it's hard to make this work?
MJF: It is not easy. The idea came last Christmas, when I began to participate in craft fairs, this was the first step. One of my goals was to share the knowledge they had and see what I could do, what not to do and start creating. I started with patchwork, very out of curiosity and decided to apply it as a Christmas tree decoration. Later I started using them now as decoration on a table.

It joined the traditional with something more contemporary.
MJF: Exactly. Then I had the idea of ​​doing them with embroidery, to that end I had to contact a factory, because I have to use a certified product of IVBRAM ( Madera institute of wine and embroidery). I explained my ideas and they immediately accepted the project. I thought my biggest problem was to change mindsets, because in addition to sheets, towels and bath towel there is very little variety and the people in the factory accept different ideas, both the person who designs patterns and the embroider. I also tried to use other colors, in addition to the traditional ones. You can work not only in cotton and not exclusively in linen, there are a number of things we can do. Until recently we were limited to use embroidery as we did fifty years ago and have evolved so much, the embroidery can also evolve without losing its roots.

What were the most successful items among the public?
MJF: The handkerchiefs bag is what sells best, especially for the locals. I notice that there are many people who value the work. The bags with lavender scent, which can be used in a room, a drawers or as decoration and many are also sold out. People value and appreciate what I have, go back to the origins. I feel that.

Let's talk about the kind of person who seeks bord'arte?
MJF: I have a lot of acceptance by the locals. Many tell me they have embroidery at home from their mothers and grandmothers, but not always use it and look at these items differently, not only as something they have inherited, but as something they can use in everyday life. And I intend to show it also to the younger generation. In my day-to-day I talk much with them, I teach, I show a lot of my work and I notice that this mentality is not difficult to change. Basically what I'm doing is reinventing our craft, because it needs a push since is stagnated. People always choose the simplest, the cheapest, which unfortunately we see increasingly widespread, mass products. I have nothing against the Chinese, but are products with no personal touch, no love, dedication and passion. The islanders are a symbol of the search for a better life, but I would not want to lose our Funchal, our more traditional stores, in favor of other with tax benefits and we are forgetting what is ours.

http://www.facebook.com/pages/BordArte/110540449069931

It was the third LP from one of the most mythical bands of Portugal.

Who from my generation can honestly say that was never touched in the inmost depths of it being when heard the first chords of "who I did not forget"? For a signal, a lost hope in vain ... and it took 30 years for the band returned to join and again we are overwhelmed by memories of a country in the late 80th full of promise, full of new energy that emerged through one of the most notable Portuguese bands of the musical panorama. The "seventh legion" renews our concept of "Portugality" with its sound very close to our roots and the theme Dawn and Santa Maria Maggiore; both instruments are a good example of it. It's an album that carries the full weight of an emerging nation, full of potential. Without having someone to love is the other songs that were extracted from this album with little success in the music charts but widely praised by critics at the time, although it was later recognized for its innovative concept. The lady of the roses is one of my favorites, my lady who thee lugs no longer return to the past / I have roses to give thee, I have someone for whom I hope here, it is a poem set to music that included the participation of Luis Represas and reflects the great taste of this group. For this comeback the band member promise to keep the sound genuine, without renewing the musical arrangements, without the weight of time, but is that possible? Maintaining the purity of that ideal that was the seventh legion? Hopefully all does go well; my generation needs to hear these hymns of youth again and again, so hope does not die.

It is a tradition that comes from the Azores and have been part of the wardrobe of very famous women.

The embroideries made of straw originate from the island of Faial. Beautiful motifs with spikes of wheat, bunches of grapes and small flowers embroidered in straw of wheat or rye most recently, which are applied in various types of tissue. Only a very observant eye can discern that it is a natural fiber, as the end result is delicate and sophisticated. It all began, according to the master's thesis on design and marketing of Paulo Teles Lemos da Silva, with the "story about an English immigrant in 1850, which appeared on the island and wore a silk embroidered hat with straw. The disclosure was soon made by Joan E. Ferreira, who figured out how to embroider straw. Until the thirties, no had never seen embroidered straw, the women were accustomed to the "Richelieu"stich. This unique type of embroidery flourished around 1939 and the raw materials were easy to find, a needle, a piece of tulle and some straw were enough to form these singular works". One of the greatest artisans of this peculiar art, Dona Elvira said in "traditional Portuguese embroidery" that "the work was based initially on veils, but with the times and the changes that the church faced, we had to innovate and reinvent so much that she later went to work on her own and make scarves and dresses. Her name has become a reference of the embroidered straw of Faial, that she took orders for dresses of prominent persons in the 50 and 60, as Jacqueline Kennedy and the wife of Prime Minister of Canada "due to so closely connection with this island and the American continent. An excellent indicator of its modernity which could be used by the national designers complementing their collections with this singular design as also were the women who embroidered over the centuries.

http://repositorium.sdum.uminho.pt/bitstream/1822/6723/1/TESE_PAULO.pdf

Criarte2012 results of the mill a couple of designers who tries to illustrate the objects that populate our daily lives. As one way to enhance and customize pieces and accessories of the day to day, giving them a touch of individuality and low-cost creativity.

What is criarte2012?
Tiago Vasconcelos: Objects of the mundane, day-to-day, to which we give a special touch, different than we are accustomed.

Why the tennis shoes?
TV: Because everyone needs shoes for walking. People like the individuality, there are unique pieces.

Francisca Tenreiro: It's something everyone has and people can come to us and we customize. We tried themes; vary each time, the city of Porto to the tourists, the abstract, dolls and animals for the remaining customers that seek us.

You also customize clocks and piggy banks. What attracted this kind of everyday object?
TV: We bet on what we like to change.
FT: I would like to have a custom clock. With the crisis, people buy the cheapest. We, however, tried innovation. The accessories, or articles made in large numbers as in the case of tennis, are very expensive. We worked in the sense of reducing the costs and at the same time appeal to people to seek more Portuguese design.

And what has been the feedback from the public?
FT: It's been very good. As soon as we created the facebook page we received orders. My initial goal was to sell at fairs, but I had invitations to events much larger and it made ​​me very happy.

From orders you can already perceive who is the public of criarte2012?
FT: Young people. Portuguese for now.
TV: But we also want to reach the foreign customer.

http://www.facebook.com/criarte2012

It is one of the few musicians in our country who have mastered the art of playing the mandolin, though he still considers himself a lowly apprentice of musician. He is also a songwriter who draws inspiration from his experiences, his friends and his origins.

One of your compositions the new world has many musical influences. It's like a return to roots.
Norberto Gonçalves da Cruz: It is a contemporary concept of an orchestra, which is more classic, is a kind of opera. It has two chapters and I just didn't finished yet, because I have no money to edit the whole concert. It is the journey of an older person, with flash backs to the mixture, that departure. There's this euphoria and when they finally discovers that the going away is not what he need, what he need is this new world that is within him. His experiences, his roots, his maturity and education. Works like a worldview.

But this new world arises in what context?
RGC: So far, my experience in Italy, where I learn to give value to the music, to friends and our experiences. There is a circle of trust. I had never done anything like this, but started in 2004 when I attended an integrated concert and had never done anything of that kind and I thought why not does something? And I began to write. I wrote the story and soon after came the music and did everything. I began to produce it, the musicians involved work with me for free and all are integrated. I somehow tried each one complete the work, but in my personal perspective it does not need to be complete. On my way of seeing things, music should lead people to think for themselves, what it represents for them.
It is curious that you say this because when I heard your composition materialized in my mind a distant journey.
NGC: The story is an old man who writes in his diary, he relives the memory of his past life, his home and recalls the daily life of his grandfather who was a fisherman, he sees himself with thirty years of age, and so the theme is in English, refers to his current life, the country where he resides. Often happened to me when I was in Italy I dreamed I was here, in Madeira and we spoke in Italian. I like these parallels. It starts there. If you hear the letter he speaks of his grandfather a fisherman and the mother whale. When I speak of the new world, says in the lyrics, now I learned to sail alone since my angels died, i.e., grandfather and his mother.

Your work also draws a parallel with your music career that was influenced by your grandfather?
RGC: I think our roots are very important. The people today cling to stereotypes and don't understand that to pursue these goals, it means nothing. Today, accounts more the appearance, the visuals and what I want to highlight is the essence within. It's that entire journey, that life, this is the new world. It is also to accept. During its unique concert work, each person had a different view and we all agreed that it was the acceptance of our inner self, our personal journey.

The inspiration muse, in the city of Porto, has a collection of apparel and accessories inspired by the gothic, rococo, baroque, burlesque and rockabilly style created by designer Kristine. The store is now ten years and in 2012 she designed for the first time all the clothes for the new collection. Come and become more imaginative.

Your clothing has a strong inspiration on the Victorian era, what attracts you in that period in terms of clothing?
Kristine Costa: Is the Victorian era and beyond, I also appreciate the baroque and rococo. What these have in common in the female garments, are the corsets that give emphasis to the hips, is very delicate clothing. I love the forms and ornamentation of these pieces.

It is noted a large number of details in the clothes. The corsets have ties, ribs and notes on velvet. You saw all of them?
KC: Yes, it's all done for me. I took the course of designer and modeler in CITEX. I draw the collection, elaborate the moldings, cut the fabric and sew everything from beginning to the end.

Do you have trouble finding the tissues?
KC: Not now, because in Portugal today there is plenty to choose from. I have a supplier in Vila do Conde that gets me the more specific fabrics, brocades and lace, for example. Two years ago I had great difficulties in this field.

Who is the client that goes to your store? Who are these women looking for your pieces?
KC: Oddly enough I don't have an audience just gothic. Come to the store all sort of women who also enjoy my pieces, because they are different, with a more exuberant design, with more detailed and accessible prices, because designers charge fortunes for this type of clothing. This new collection is from black, tighter gothic to the color pink, the blues and beiges that are more connected with the rococo line and many are accessible to any woman. The corset covers a huge range of women. These pieces range from the Gothic, the burlesque, the pin up in all kinds of colors and allow me access to a very large female audience, from girls as young as fifteen, adolescents, they begin to dress and go to women over thirties, I'm forty and so they are the vast majority of my clients.

Tell me a little of your new collection inspired by the rococo.
KC: Yes, I love this historical period. Marie Antoinette, the Marquise de Pompadour. I love the delicacy of the pieces, the ruffles, laces, brocades and the importance of the hips in this era. I have a large part of the collection based on crinolines that are made by hand by me.

Why you chose this theme for the garments? It is for the autumn-winter season?
KC: I do not have stations set out in for the collections, perhaps you may notice it in the type of tissue in the winter, them I use more velvets, heavier brocades that protect you more. The lines do not differ from each other. I chose this theme because I love the colors, I'm Gothic as a way of life, but we can use other colors, black is not necessarily more sinister, though I love that color. Abroad, the Gothic girls use all sorts of mixed tons like black and white, pink, blue and red.

http://www.musadeinspiracao.com/

Marlene Oliveira created a store on the internet that sells environmentally and vegan's fabrics.

Do you know how much making your clothing cost to the environment? So let me give you some numbers! According to Fashion NYC, we used about 8000 different chemicals to transform the raw material in crude tissue which are subsequently discharged into rivers. Tons of salt are released to ecosystems, dissolved in water, used in treating leather. To produce 11 million tons of polyester in the world, the equivalent of 11 billion pounds, requiring large amounts of energy during its manufacturing process and while this material is not biodegradable, is recyclable. Not to mention the 4 kg of carbon dioxide that each of us throws into the air every time we use the washing machine in one piece of close over 60 degrees, using also the dryer and ironing. It's overwhelming, is not it? But not all are bad news, sustainability in clothing has also become a matter of fashion, the result of greater consumer awareness and it's currently a rapidly growing market.

"Green fabrics" is one of such example. It is an online store, which bet on more environmentally friendly and vegan items, the result of a desire of Marlene Oliveira, which offer its customers a product that has enormous respect for people, animals and the environment. All fabrics are organic, fair trade, most are hypoallergenic, and are even recommended for people with sensitive skin. The manufacturing process ensures that does not compromise the health of livestock producers or uses pesticides and only employs natural colorants with low environmental impact. A quality assurance and eco sustainable certification by Global Organic Textile Standard, an international organization, which secures that the dyes are biodegradable, have total absence of toxic metals, formaldehyde and genetically modified organisms. For all these good reasons, you can now created your clothing completely environmentally friendly, with an asset the beautiful patterns proposed by "green fabric" of Marlene Oliveira. Welcome to a new, more sustainable and eco friendly world.

www.tecidosecologicos.com

Karla Vieira is a designer whose universe revolves around the colors that paint our daily lives. It is a network of minute tones intertwined with each other creating unusual patterns full of personality. It's a vibrant world that attracts our attention and which are reflected in accessories, from rings, earrings and necklaces.

How the accessories appear in your collections?
Karla Vieira: I use the accessories as a complement to the collections. I started when I arrive to Madera with the accessories because it was a way to reach the public quickly and after that jump for clothing. Accessories have always accompanied the collections when I'm drawing clothing I always think about what will be the piece that will complement this coordinated. It is very important.

I know you do them manually.
KV: Each bead is handmade, one by one. It is quite a long process, may take twenty minutes to one hour each, and depends on the model that I will apply in every sphere. The process involves creating a pattern, which is what I found more enjoyable. I first draw, or have a mental idea and from there do a mixture of modeling paste and start to build the so-called round reeds where I mix one of white tape, one green and so on. I imagine the model in a geometric space, then is cut and applied to the sphere. This material is greatly diminished because it can be purchased at newsagents, but not everyone mastered the technique. It is the creation of patterns that lays the art, because anyone can use and shape the dough. The beads previously done by hand are stuck, baked, painted and assembled at the final in the necklace. One of my first collections is cobblestone, which is already a trademark of Karla Vieira. It is one that has greater acceptance, even among tourists; each piece has a brochure with pictures that people like. Then I have another inspired by flowers, where all patterns are mixed and the latest collection is called laurel, inspired by our nature. There is always an issue with a connection to nature.

Your accessories are created only in terms of the collections, or individual patterns offspring?
KV: In most cases the accessories are connected to the collections, but also I create other standards for those who want to acquire them on their own without having to resort to the garment. I draw these from nature, the very essence of the colors and create something that calls the attention. Sometimes I'm walking and the tints of a flower suggest me an idea.

How many patterns you have in all?
KV: Well, I have the cobblestone pattern that I mentioned. After the summer blue, which is a collection created exclusively for xik shoes are more silvery patterns with black and blue. It was even thought for the store, the decor and a type of client that is more sophisticated, more elegant, not as hippie as some pieces I have. I still have the red carnation, spring collection, the laurel and two more that I have not launched that are inspired by the Madera embroidery and that I will present shortly.
http://karlavieira.com/

She has an extensive career as an actress and jazz singer. After a period of growth and maturity as an artist, sh decided that this was the ideal time to release the first studio album with 11 tracks composed and sung by her, but more are still to come. Untitled, yet, but will be released in principle before the end of the year.

I know you are on the studio to record your first album. Why only now?
Mariana Norton: It's a good question, I do not know there were other opportunities, but I felt I wanted to record my originals. Other things came to my way, I wanted to study, because I'm challenging always myself.

It is a matter of maturity?
MN: Maybe, I feel I was eager to write, but that is a good time, I feel mature on this record. All songs are composed by me, the lyrics also and I'm happy. I think it was a route.

This work is inspired in jazz music?
MN: It is not necessarily a jazz record. When I composed the songs for this album I limited myself to think what I wanted to hear and would like to sing, so I think it is a personal style that brings together all the influences that I appreciate. I like jazz, soul, pop and rock. I have an eclectic taste and this album has a little bit of everything. There are songs in Portuguese and English. I do not know if it will be a tradicional jazz record or contemporary, that is up to the critics to judge.
Approaching your career on jazz, you think this style of music is no longer restricted?It become more democratic? And when you noticed this change?
MN: I noticed this change for some years now. Imagine, when I entered the Hot Club for the first time I was 17 and was clearly the younger girl, I felt a little embarrassed. Today I am a teacher and currently have 15, 16 years old students. I wish that in my time people had awakened early for this musical style and wanted to learn music, although there are few options, you rather have classical or jazz. Then I felt the difference, a greater interest of younger generations, concerts and people.

It is a better-informed public?
MN: I do not know, I think it has also to do with the fact that there are more records and Portuguese musicians playing jazz. There are more people who play. There are several types of jazz, from the more diverse to the more vocal. I think it also became less intellectual with the passage of time, there was a more difficult phase earlyer, and today there are a bit of everything. This leads people to go look, go to clubs to hear this language and have more curiosity about a more complex music, more instrumental.