A Look at the Portuguese World

 

h facebook h twitter h pinterest

The fearless

Written by  yvette vieira fts ugo camera portugal fashion

 

Susana Bettencourt is a young Portuguese fashion designer who has won the world's attention with its strong collections bet on patterns and modern accessories from ancient techniques.

What is your vision for the brand Susana Bettencourt for years to come?
Susana Bettencourt: The vision I have is to gain more customers and more shops. I hope with advertising and shows I reach more people. When my work level hope to continue to evolve and surprise, ie fashion show after fashion show, collection after collection.

As a designer what factors you have into consideration when creating a collection? Given now your color palette and your dichotomy between handicrafts and digital.
SB: Before starting the collections you need to have a well-defined brand identity. So before you start drawing have to have a business plan at the company level, but also in terms of the brand itself, ie, target customers and achieve the goals that I think as a creator. For the new global forces that are in Asia, the tropical parts of Africa and South America, right there I need to have separate details in the collections, strong patterns, with flashy colors for various types of costumer, which is very important. The patterns must have some connection, or when I create a selection, the first thing I stablish is the concept that ends up making the coordinates cohesive and do not run away from the starting point.

Curious you have mentioned the colors, because in your collections either spring-summer or fall-winter, you always introduce in the garments a strong blue, black, white, silver and gold.
SB: Not all together, but I have to always have one of these elements, because of the level of accessories due to the use of metals, I have metallic colors. In terms of clothing, usually black and white are use to outline the standards and giving them another definition and somehow also gives them strength.

You first you draw accessories or garments?
SB: I've done one way and another, depends on the collection and the urgency level of the suppliers too.

 

And in terms of the materials how do you do the research? I know you have a base that is the crochet and lace.
SB: Yes, but not in terms of materials, only the technique itself. That's what I try to do, try to use old formulas with new materials to modernize them in order to be more accepted by the younger audience and new customers.

But this knowledge you get it in terms of national technical or research also other countries such as Asia?
SB: So, as I have several collections have used many techniques. I am specialized in knit and sometimes it has nothing to do with research, but when I look at my "mood board", which is the concept of my collection, look what helps me translate all this mesh, as is something I do from young age comes to me naturally, so I bobbins.... as frioleira, how do I crochet with two pins.

Still has any direct or indirect influence being from an island on the Azores?
SB: The island always has an influence, because it is a big part of me, just being creative all influence, all meshes I learned and everything I am is because I am from there.

Let's talk about your latest collection for spring-summer 2015, what inspired you in terms of trends for the creation of the pieces?
SB: I will not seek trends. I research things that are happening in the world, digital, exhibitions and felt it has been something I have been developing since my latest collections. The contrast between all that is man made, ie the craft, then the digital and technological world. Turns out to be most noticeable in the patterns of the fabrics, which is intended to represent the nature, textures, flowers, water and sky in a pixelated pattern that is what is part of the technology. And from there to develop my own artistic framework, the cohesive collection comes from there and the rest of the patterns.

There is an iconic piece in this collection or not?
SB: There are several. The whole black vest handcrafted with fringes that I think is very important. After the part of prints, the boomers are the coats with very strong identity and I created a lot for this collection.

Would you say that is a more structured collection in terms of modeling the pieces?
SB: Yeah, it was more structured, although the prior collection was also in that direction. The idea was to create new structures, the same with my identity. But I am clearly more pronounced in the patterns and the fabric itself than in the forms. Incidentally, what I end up selling are simpler structures, because as the patterns are strong, it should not flaunt too much in that way.

Who is the woman who wears Susana Bettencourt?
SB: It's a woman without prejudices, fearless and wants to have a presence, so that
the pieces are so strong. I think a little of this woman exists within each of us. My big bet is the new Latin, South America and Africa and from Asia I learned over the collections, that they increasingly identify with my knitting.

http://www.susanabettencourt.com/

Leave a comment

Make sure you enter the (*) required information where indicated. HTML code is not allowed.

FaLang translation system by Faboba

Podcast

 

 

 

 

Eventos