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Roadmap of stone

Written by  yvette vieira fts david francisco


It is a photographic journey through the eyes of David Francisco in the Nun's Valley.

As we descend towards the Nuns Valley we do not comprehend the size of the landscape that surrounds us until we reach the valley, close to the bottom we became conscious of our insignificance before the mountain ranges that surround it. It is the only point of the island where no one can see the sea, obliterated by walls of volcanic rock whose relief was excavated by the various forces of nature in constant conflict over millions of years. The passing of the man in these parts is recent, even when facing the almost insurmountable challenges of these mountain walls, life happened and it also was carved on the stone. Snaking through the landscape of this small town, we discover along its narrow paths, traces of an everyday perpetuated through time.

 

 

 

The caves emerge naturally in the crevices of the rock. Natural and affordable shelter for people and animals, limpets, as they are known by the locals, also home to the legends of the Nuns Valley. Tales are told in low voice of a lost indigenous people that lived here, better know as "grimas", that was persecuted and decimated by settlers who came later populate this site. Small creatures that walked on all fours and almost as if by magic could quickly climb the mountain and live on from what nature could provide, savages, the people said. If it existed or not, nobody knows for sure, what remains is a series of caves that you can visit and enjoy soly surrounded by lush greenery. There was however, one in particular that caught my attention because of the innumerable small holes dug in the rock where people put their feet to reach the cave. So they don't fall, they told me, they needed a big long staff, with a metal tip that poked into the soil and helped them not lose balance in order to get safely to the shelter. The question I asked is because they needed to be in a place so inhospitable in an island with no natural predators? The watch what? Or who?

 

The fact is that not only the nuns lived in Valley, hence the name. Throughout the twentieth century, runaway slaves, criminals and all sorts of people lived in these quiet and winding hills. Another of those vestiges of another era are the stone mills, very close to what appears to be an ancient village, the spindle was placed in a hole that pressed the chestnut grapes as they were called against the fund, which poured the nectar of the gods through a small hole just below. Incidentally, it is known that this was a wine cast that occurred over the chestnut tree still abound in the area, but which nevertheless disappeared by the introduction of new types of grape. If we do not have a watchful eye many of these eternal monuments of everyday almost fused with vegetation due to its disuse. But there is still a working stone mill that is used by the community, as its owner said. It's really a journey through time carved in stone. Forever.

As cavernas emergem naturalmente nas reentrâncias da rocha. Abrigo natural e acessível para pessoas e animais, as lapas, como são conhecidas pela população local, também albergam as lendas do Curral das Freiras. Conta-se a boca pequena que aqui viveram os grimas um povo indígena da própria ilha que foi perseguido e dizimado pelos colonos que vieram povoar posteriormente este local. Pequenas criaturas que andavam quase de gatas e que como por magia conseguiam escalar rapidamente a montanha e viver do que a natureza lhes provia, selvagens, diz o povo. Se existiram ou não, ninguém sabe ao certo, o que resta é um conjunto de grutas que se pode visitar e apreciar demoradamente envoltas por uma vegetação luxuriante. Houve contudo, uma em particular que me chamou à atenção, pelos inúmeros pequenos orifícios escavados na pedra onde se colocava os pés para chegar a furna. Para não caírem, dizem-me, necessitavam de uma grande bordão de corte muito comprido, com uma ponta de metal que espetavam no solo e os ajudava a não perder o equilíbrio de forma a chegar sãos e salvos até o abrigo. A pergunta que me fiz é porque necessitavam de estar num lugar tão inóspito numa ilha sem predadores naturais? A vigiar o quê? Ou quem? O facto é que não só as freiras viveram no Curral, daí o nome. Ao longo do século vinte, escravos fugitivos, bandidos e todo o tipo de gentes, viveu nestas encostas silenciosas e sinuosas. Outro desses vestígios de outras eras são os lagares em pedra, muito próximos do que parece ser um antigo aldeamento, o fuso era colocado num orifício que pressionava as uvas da castanha como eram chamadas contra o fundo, que vertia o néctar dos deuses através de um pequeno buraco logo mais abaixo. Aliás, sabe-se que se tratava de uma casta que se dava ao longo dos castanheiros que ainda abundam na zona, mas que entretanto terá desaparecido pela introdução de novos tipos de uva. Se não tivermos um olhar atento muitos destes eternos monumentos do quotidiano confundem-se quase com a vegetação, devido ao seu desuso. Mas, existe ainda um lagar em pedra em funcionamento que é usado pela comunidade, como o próprio dono contou. É mesmo uma viagem pelo tempo esculpida na pedra. Para sempre.

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