In your travels did you ever experienced any increased difficulty? You're tiny and frail. You look weak!
they don’t noticed me. (Laughs) I once met a friend of mine was on the eve of departure for Morocco and he found me and told me: Oh man, this woman, you're so little and you go everywhere. And I thought one thing, what has to do with the other?
I never felt difficulties maybe in one, or other occasion. Situations that have happened, but it was okay in the end. But yes the dangers lurk. Difficulty I did not feel, I’am very alert when traveling. I'm always with my senses very alert and if iam in the sidewalk and in my direction I'm sniffing a problem, I feel that something can go wrong, I change side. It is my technique, I don’t risk the slightest. Saying things as they are, I know when I travel alone I can not do some things that if you were accompanied. It is a limitation, no doubt. For me it always ran well, but there were sites that I got myself some years ago and now never would, it was the inconsistency of youth. Everything went well, but I've been lost in the mountains for several days without anyone. It could have gone wrong for anyone, male or female. And so, I think we must be careful.
A lot depends on your attitude on the road, I will not give the guys with the problem, if that happens quickly run away from there. The technique, if I may, you never must get to the point, the inevitability of combat, never get to that point, to use the legs to run away and want out in any situation. You have to equip ourself with weapons and jump out before that and never had so many problems. For example, the other day was talking with a friend of mine who was in Machu Picchu. He made the trip there by a completely fantastic way, he and his friend. I did it alone and could never have done it as they did because it was impossible as a woman. He was on a bike, down the mountain and crossed the train line from Aguas Calientes which is famous because it is the access to Machu Picchu and did the tracks on foot. There is, I have the physical ability to do this but never could alone.
Do you think there is a female travel writing? Can you foresee a difference in your writing and also travel chronicles writing by a man?
I think the female sensibility is most evident in the writing. When you do have it, because there are people who have it most accurate. But, I guess, that there is travel writing in the feminine. Anyway do not think is an advantage.
I noticed in your writing you bothered to mention the precarious living conditions of these people, beyond culture, because in those areas life conditions are very harsh, people live below the poverty line. And that fact is not so visible in male writers.
It has to do with sensitivity. I do not know if it's a woman, or Raquel, or is to do with the fact that I’am Portuguese. There for, I do not know why that is. To me what interests me and I've said this a few times for the story, a motto of my chronicle of travel, people can see what my eyes saw. In this regard, my description of my "character" within the story is important. I have a book that I'm the character who is the "wind of others" which is a very interesting book, as the Rui Zink said, my books are the greatest. It is really interesting, because if you like the chronic you will like this. It is a book that goes more in the novel style, the adventures I had. And my effort has always been the common thread was not "eat" the story because it was what was happening to me. And not me itselve.
And going back to your question, the female sensibility in a travel writing, it shows a lot. It may not be an advantage, when we have become the main characters, because we are overwhelmed by what is happening to us and what we see. And I am referring to the chronicle of travel while as literature and not to journalism, the travel report. If not even been the second character, less the character itself in the chronicle of a trip is important to be careful and not being the character, because the journey itself is the protagonist. And my line is this, I'm the thread. I am the mirror of this happening, but also wanted people to think if this happens to me as is happening to her, instead of, what happened to her. I prefer that people conceive what could have happened to them, than they are to see my experience in itself alone.
Men consider you intimidating? When one of them asks you what you do? And you say I write travel chronicles.
(Laughs) It depends what kind of men. We have many cultures and many kinds. There are men who are fascinated, there are those who find it ridiculous and there are still those who are indifferent. I think it's a great conversation hitch: Have you ever been in Mexico? I do not know. Above all, it is a very universal theme and who does not like to travel, likes to hear what you've seen these sites. Just kidding! It is a great unlocker, I've had great conversations about trips that were well beyond the tracks. I hung very well with guys, always did. I was a scout for many years. And my best friends are guys. I do not feel it and do not do so to feel it, quite the contrary. This is other of the mottos of my life, no time to lose. And I like to meet people for what they are, what it is, but sometimes yes there are men who call your attention becouse of the way they look at you.
The best vouyage ever?
It's the most horrible question that can do. And make them often. I only have good trips and never very bad. I had culture shock.
Where was that?
Where I felt more was in Peru. I did a trip that wouldn’t remember the devil. I looked at the map and decided to go from point A to point B, and everybody travels thru the coastline, but I like mountain and made a straight line. And it never crossed my mind that in terms of transportation was the hardest thing in this world. I walked from San Pedro de Casta to Arequipa and Cusco from this location to a straight line was so very, very difficult. There were several days where there was no foreigners and especially the relationship they had with people from another culture, and how should I say this, it was the only time I felt it was completely invisible. People sat on our laps on the bus. It was as if they do not see you. Spit, sneeze up to you. It was very weird. Everything smelled bad, people, hotel. They robbed us. That was culture shock because you do not feel comfortable with anything. And note that I loved the trip to Peru! The culture shock begins from hate to love. But, yes those were tough times. But there are two trips that marked me, one of South America, have been there three times, it was during the first six months, and where I made friends for life and where I feel very well received.
And then there's a place where i’m always going, because I feel the need that is India. It is a very soothing area, is like going to land. Do not know why, I have roots there. It's where I feel I know who I am, sometimes when I forget. India returns me to the center. I also have a history with this country that has given me a lot. And it was my first trip. It is a place with lovely people. And it's all very instinctive. And I get into it with eyes closed. Indians and I give ourselves very well. It is something very ethereal to talk, but India is changing and maybe not the same as in 2001 and perhaps into 1960.
Once you land in India there is something that is an obvious exchange of energy, of empathy that is evident. The exchange of presence of mind of each other, call it spirit, call it whatever we want, and this presence so people are not aware of . They are more aware of communication and what is said, the verbal language, there is not, over there is what are you going after. It is very understandable when you come quickly, as the taxi driver tries to foul you and take the money, and is also very fast for them to understand that I am not for these. I just want this and not that, without having to speak. And so the journey becomes easier. And they have very good structures, trains, etc.. This is a communication more real than that of being polite. What is there, we feel that what that person wants you. Good or bad. And that for us westerners who are very cerebral, if we use this spiritual empathy that there is much under the skin is something that can be rewarding. It makes everything easier for me.
It is very empathetic spirit. Not what you tell me, what you look like, more power to you arrive. The way you handle their own energy from others. It is a bilateral game and may seem strange, it is normal in India. People who do not realize it, are those who have bad trips. And there are only two types, the wonderful and awful, because of this lack of sensitivity. They are who they are, they are not us are they? For me it is a fascinating game of presence.
You have been in the Azores, which elations you took from this trip?
I went there with high expectations and overcame them all. There is something magical in the Azores does not capture at the physical level, it's a great feeling, is a territory even mystical thought it had an aura that fascinated me. From the viewpoint of nature, was fascinating. I did norklin, I surf ed and I did everything I could. I did some walking and it was great. And I was in the three groups. I visited Flores, Terceira and Sao Miguel. Each more different than others. But, I will highlight the Flores, is a site that was the nature toying with me, playing tricks. I went to the Seven Lakes and all were full of fog in two days I was there. Huge dead ends. It seems that nature itself was telling me to go there, it seemed likely to want to put myself in a mess. And I found that Flores was a surreal piece of land, it seems that was a dream. Attention, I was not drugged! It is a different place, it seems that we are not here nor there. Not Europe, belongs to the American Board. Seems to be part of a territory that is not nailed down. In some sort of sites were the most beautiful I have ever visited in my life. In fact, beauty is fabulous, the people are of a simplicity and warmth that appeals to me and has a great advantage compared to other islands, you very easily leaves the urban area. Are islands that despite its size, can you easily isolate yourself. You can forget the city on the island. There you could be alone. In the Azores can I come back every year because it has everything . I like to enjoy myself.
Can you distinguish the essence of an islander of someone who is not? There are a number of characteristics that distinguish them?
The one thing, one cute thing is they look at you with a certain distrust, united with an unusual curiosity. And is a more inswept person. One islander has that look of someone who has seen it all, that calm and a certain distance. And there's a curiosity to know what you do and that is a thousand times more genuine. I do not notice any differences between the Azores and one of the continent, because for me Portugal is an island. Who lives on the coast is like living on an island, as the geographical position brings us back to that idea. We have almost no relationship with Spain. And I feel that been a islander is a feature already ours.
What I found interesting in the Azores is how they feel different from the mainland, not because they live in islands, but because they Azorians. And I realize, why they feel that way. The culture is very different. They are more relaxed compared to the rest, all in good mood, you’ll do it, when you do it. In mainland, we're always late for everything, we are contracted for everything we take more time to trust others, is a feature very Portuguese.
You also wrote about Cape Verde, more specifically about the musician Bana, why?
The Bana is in fact, and it is well established, but the story goes, enshrines it as the greatest musician of Cape Verde. He is no composer but a performer. It's amazing, that man was born to sing and I suddenly had the need to tell this story. And this has been a constant in my life, If I don’t tell the history, them they are lost. Eventually, there is no one who has the opportunity to do so. My next book is a biography of a character who has a history that was not been written neither.
The Bana played a role that has and is very, very, much as would oblige me to go to Cape Verde, bummer! (Laughs). It is one of the destinations.
But how?
It was a mutual friend who introduced me in order to write his biography. And I had already written a book, not a biography. His career fascinated me because he was an orphan, poor and barefoot, he had one thing that distinguished him from other boys who were poor and barefoot, an extraordinary voice. Begins to be sponsored by one of the great composers of Cape Verdes is B. Leza and from there launch a career.
Cape Verde is an area that fascinates me. I have a tendency to swim too, put me in the water very revolts, but knowing that does not lose my foot long. It is my position in writing. I'll try it, I'm in a very experimental stage, but I know there is a buoy. And being in this former portuguese territory is that buoy, all these countries are almost inexhaustible source of creation. And I thought it was the best way to mess with Cape Verde was to have this story to tell. Cape Verdeans also thanked and I thank these people for opening that door, as you might imagine. I went to Cape Verde for the first time, open doors that were opened to me, was very rewarding.
As is to be islander in Cape Verde different?
Yeah, they are Cape Verdeans. I pondered long on this book, which to me is a fascinating topic that mulattos life. Cape Verde is a laboratory of people and races. And they are an incredible mix. What is reflected in the idiosyncrasies of the Cape Verdeans of which are 10 islands, each different from one another. Ten distinct personalities, they themselves feel and show the difference between the island of Brava and Sao Vicente, between Santiago and Fogo. It's funny because they are personality traits and physical.
The Fire Islanders usually have blue eyes. And it is different because it has everything to do with colonization. Roughly speaking a lot of people forget, the island of Guinea, the island of slaves, that is Santiago. They were caught by the Portuguese and then eventually blend with the Portuguese. But we were not alone, Cape Verde was very important in terms of telecommunications and was a very important port in the steamship, then rode up there several offices, Italian and English. Especially Italians. And everyone mingled, it is a laboratory of how genes are mixed together can produce such different people, interesting and intelligent. After a whole culture that can not be summarized, which has a pinch Portuguese, but has so little at the same time, which is original. It is so highly reductive to say, I live on the island of Fogo and Cape Verdeans are a race created by the Portuguese.
It's a whole culture that mixed with the feeling of islander. Cape Verde is very unique. Since Africa is not Africa. There is also not Europe. They are very civilized, civilized like in Europe, but within the islands themselves, the elites are one thing, the staff of the tents, the poorest have an aggression and a way of being more Badio. They are descendants of former slaves who fled to the mountain and realese then selves. Badio way is not very African, but it's very tribal at the same time. So it is very complex. That's what gives it interest. And on top they speak our language. They speak Creole, of course, but almost everyone speaks Portuguese. And they say one thing very cool, there are Cape Verdeans, then there are the foreigners and only then the Portuguese. We are not from there, but we are not foreigners. And it is these historical relations and we'll never go away. So is good to be Portuguese and not a American, and this only post September 11th.
Portuguese are always well received, even with a certain pity, because we are not rich. It’s cool. It's nice of the person who greets us, they do not look at you as a source of euro equal to a Swede. And our position in Cape Verde is very grateful. They are hospitable, and I think we're very well received. And we are there on a platform of understanding that is an advantage. Even the economically and politically we have been turning to the Palop's not just the language. There is a historical empathy and apparently, thankfully, is to endure over the colonial frictions, with everything that happened. Rubbish decolonization is said that you could not do better, of course you could do better. And there is still time to correct some things to get well done.
You said in the middle of the interview that you currently working in a project, could you tell us a little about it?
It is a biography about a lady of 90 years, Portuguese. Is not well known by the general public, but comes from a family well known and is our own Joan of Arc . And I can only say that will be published this year.
And the travel chronicles?
In principle the third quarter of this year back to the chronicles of travel. I want to go to the East in an uncertain for now. India, Sri Lanka, around that. However, now to Croatia were I will present my book, "the train home." The Azores in July and work, but I have to do for now because they're part of my route. If all goes well, a big trip at the end of the year, September to October. The extended East.
