A Look at the Portuguese World

 

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A portuguese chef

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Miguel Rocha Vieira is Portuguese, from Lisbon, determined and passionate about his profession, the kitchen. In fact without these features he would never have achieved the first Michelin star of his career and the Costes restaurant in Hungary.

 

After winning a Michelin star for Costes, you went back to Portugal as a sous chef why?

Miguel Rocha Vieira: I left Hungary because I was too tired. It was the opening of a restaurant from scratch, worked for two years, seven days a week and I was exhausted not so much physically, but mentally. I came away in January 2010 and in March won a Michelin star. At the same time in Lisbon things were not going well, I was not adapting, because I came from being a chef to sous chef working under the supervision of an another person with whom I disagreed and the owners of Costes call me again and I thought if I worked so much and now there is a reward, should enjoy it if you can.

 

Back in Hungary, your goal now is a second Michelin star?

MRV: There was talk about it this year and I kept the star, but my goal is to continue the work I have done, if this is a second Michelin is not the most important, we must not only look at the stars, but for our customers and who will pay and that's what makes me happy to go to work.

 

What is your favorite dish?

MRV: I love to cook fish and seafood. I'm from Lisbon and in Hungary thing are a bit difficult because there is none. I haven't a signature dish, but I prefer to cook with these ingredients.

 

What is the dish that most hate to cook?

MRV: There is no dish that I hate cooking. Pastry I do less.

There was any worse experience in the kitchen ever?

MRV: No, there are ups and downs, because they are ten years of experience directly related to the act of cooking, but I have none bad experience.

 

Going back in time, you did not begun in the kitchen; you were enrolled in a course in hotel management. You left everything behind and work in a series of internationally-renowned restaurants, one is the Bulli chef of Ferran Adrià, the world's best chef, and how did you got there?

MRV: I had a friend who told me they were looking for a chef of first year, and that's how I started. I was later promoted to sub chef in the second season. I was not in the Bulli in Barcelona, ​​but the hotel in Seville.

 

Ferran Adrià was very demanding?

MVR: Very. From the first day. It was the most demanding chefs with whom I ever worked until today. He does not you miss a thing. You walk into a kitchen where there are stocks and you do not see boiling pots. All you see are tiny scales is a kitchen where everything is composed. You have to forget what you learned so far and begin to do it again, that's what I learned.

 

What do you think then of molecular cuisine?

MRV: Are you interesting things. It's good to be aware of what is happening, listen to certain concepts and knowledge that they are talking about, because in the last eight years the kitchen has changed dramatically due to Ferran. I am not a fan. I like the tradicional kitchen.

 

What then is your signature cuisine?

MRV: Having worked in England, Spain and France have all the bases of these people I worked with, of course I try to do things my way and I do not forget that I am in Budapest. There is a Hungarian touch here and there, it is obvious that I am not Hungarian, neither the restaurant, nor ever will. I work by seasons, give the deserved appreciation to the product. It's simple cuisine, respecting the proportions, and made with love.

 

What lack's in your kitchen? I know you felt difficulties in terms of agricultural producers.

MRV: We bought it all away. The Hungarian foie gras was four times more expensive than paid in France. Ridiculous. Now the producers are better, but it is a relationship that takes time, I still do not speak Hungarian after four years. It is difficult to show the producers what do I want, they have the mindset to manage the day-to-day, do not care to establish a business relationship, for them everything it's alright, because sold its production today. It is a long time progress; try to show what we want, what I'm looking for.

 

And what are you looking for?

MRV: Products that I do not have to wait a week making the request in advance to be in my kitchen. I wish they facilitate my life on this matter. I am working more on the basis of the vegetables, because it's easier. Fish is pointless, because there is none. There is a Hungarian pig, we use a lot. Use flowers in the menu, things can be born and cook there.

 

In professional terms you see yourself a few more years in Hungary?

MRV: Yes, because there is a new project, we are going to change the Costes of place to the city center. The current kitchen is in a basement, the food is rise in an elevator, which is very conditioned. The owners realized, after four years, we have to continue to grow, that we needed a change. We found a great site in the city center, the project now goes through this new space. I cannot let things by half. We are together in the same boat, so I think the next two years I'll remain in Hungary.

 

Would you like to go back to Portugal?

MRV: I really liked that. To Lisbon. I'm off to Portugal for more than ten years and tired of moving from one place to another. It's five or six countries and fifty houses changes. I miss being with my family and my friends. To see the sea. The usual stuff.

 

What can you say to someone who wants to a kitchen chef? Not thinking about winning Michelin stars.

MRV: It's a very tough profession, that when everyone is on vacation you are working, there are no Christmas, new year's eve, summer vacation, or family, to be at this level of cuisine. Its several hours working. Months go by without seeing the sun. You go to work at night and when you come out is already dark. Your day off is spent sleeping, because you're tired. If there is no passion, it's not worth doing it. There are other professions. The first seven years will determine your career, so it is important to work on the best sites, make a good resume. Do not think about the money, or prizes. All this will come after.

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