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The ecletic

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Diana Coelho is a young jewelry designer who was born in Lisbon , moved to England when was 21, where completed a Master of Arts in the London Metropolitan University . Founded her brand in 2010 , a funky design concept of urban contemporary jewelery and still she continues to develop new concepts . Currently resides in India where she teaches in a school of design .

Wish you'd talk me out of your career , how is that a Lisbon inhabitant takes the course in London and ends in India ?
Diana  Coelho : It's true I lived in Lisbon , I was in junior high in the art grouping , since I always had a taste for small crafts and thought this would be my career path . I ended up opting for architecture , but did not finished, attended classes for only two years , because at the time had a different idea of the course , after all it was very technical and I thought I did not want to be an architect for the future . I decided to venture into jewelery , I ended up doing technical training in working with gold and silver. London appears later, still got to enroll me in school in Portugal , but my father suggested me to take the course in this England while learning English. I took it and went for the adventure was a total change in my life , I was used to my comfort zone and London is a completely different world . When I finished the course I returned to Lisbon , because of the family longing and worked as a jewelry designer for four years, doing my own pieces and created for several Portuguese companies . The crisis ended up changing my plans a bit and thought it was worth continuing to grow professionally outside Portugal . Always bet in international environments and this opportunity arose in India . I am working for a private corporation in Singapore , which has design schools in Asia .

But just teach ?                                                                                                                                                                                                 DC: I teach design and jewelery and in the technical side teach also students to work metal or other materials , I've been here for one year and one month and has been very good .

How has that experience been so far?
DC:It's been a big challenge that has gone well , the principle was a certain fear for being such a different culture and found some obstacles, there is a lot of chaos, is a country with many people , the food is different , but it's an adventure . I like it, so has been a very good in personal and professional growth , it is enriching to be in such disparate culture, I think everyone should come to India . Even those who say they would never come to this country, if only to learn to appreciate what we have , we're so lucky compared to the Indians, here the contrast is very large , they are very poor and do it all with a lightness in life.

In terms of jewelery itself , you still create collections ?
DC: Of course my time is more limited , due to classes. In terms of my personal work I do not say it was cast aside, I've always lived of my own brand while combined with other projects . In terms of my jewelry, since I came to India I have had many ideas that never would have in Portugal, even in terms of materials . So I do not see it as something that hurt me , but as a complement what I am as a designer , be in contact with students is not only to teach , but also to accept their ideas and visions , even if they have less experience. Indian jewelery is very important in cultural terms, mostly for marriages . But also in the way they see life , are the largest consumers of gold in the world . My personal vision of jewelery turns out to be very different and it turns out to add another perspective that would not have before. In Europe it is more a design concept , the jewels are more contemporary . Here's more symbolic rituals connected with the family, to give a bride gold jewelry is almost a dowry and all that inspires me , gives ideas and turns out to be an asset to what I am as a designer .

So tell me about this new phase in terms of materials , which do you use currently in your jewelry ?
DC : The material has a lot to do with the experiêncas I do with students , for example, I have a collection I created with hot glue , which on reaction with water seems plastic is tough , it's something I had never experienced and has ridden as well . The challenge to experiment with other people turns out to be positive, than if you were just in it alone would not take that risk . I have another collection inspired by the wooden stamps that Indians use for stamping fabrics . All of these things ultimately inspire my criativity, I end up using other techniques and explore different materials . One of the things that I like in my profession, while jewelrymaker, is this experimentation and fleeing a bit of the traditional techniques .

So how would you define your style now Joana Coelho ?
DC : I think it's a very eclectic style, I notice that instead of finding a unique style , which is what many designers do and always follow that line , I cannot yet define me that way , I prefer to explore and experience. That's why I limited collections with unique pieces are for a type of customer who likes different things and explore their own style . As a designer I like this opportunity not only to work manually , I also make jewelry all manually , but not to be restricted . When I worked as designer for other companies had to follow the directives governing the brand , which make it known and I want my work to be recognized for being different have unique pieces that convey irreverence, something unique and exclusive . Does not have to be expensive with materials, although very fond of silver is a material that I appreciate very much working, but this time the challenge is to use materials other than precious.

I also noticed that you no longer use gold.
DC:I do not use gold because they think it makes more sense to do what I want and always in search of stones and beads. It has everything to do with who I am as a designer . Do not feel the need to create collections of precious materials, is not part of my plans in the near future , but maybe in the future in India materials as gold are more commercialized , but at the same time it is a different market for contemporary jewelery . The Indian society is developing greatly, this is a country in grow and are more open to new fashion trends, so do not feel pressured to use only the gold .

So how Indians look at contemporary jewelery design ?                                                                                                                                                      DC:I think is what happens in other places, though less , in Portugal there is much more acceptance, here is a niche market. The parts must be in the places where you can find this kind of customers, is not so much a market , because here there is no such concept, but more in boutiques, exhibitions, fashion weeks . It is not a type of work for everyone , not something that can be produced in large quantities, are pieces for a group of people who have this interest , but I am aware that my pieces are not to be produced massively. Are unique jewelry and whoever buy it is because they like it and wants to use it. Are pieces that are not seen in all stores , is what I like and I intend my work to be, is a path I have chosen. My site turns out to be a window to the world, because I have customers from various countries who contact me and that's how I managed to keep my job.

Tell me what will be the brand , your vision for the coming years ?
DC:I do not define a plan , but my goal is to create more partnerships . I would love to work with designers, enjoyed this challenge , reconcile my jewelery with a fashion collection, whether or not with a Portuguese fashion designer . Another project I have in mind is to create accessories , bags and scarves , wanted to cover my collections with such pieces, that 's something I want to do in the near future .

But here in Portugal ?
DC: I do not know yet when I'll be in Portugal but will be where I am , whether in my online store, in India or elsewhere . I like the global element , obviously I have a connection with my country, but the goal is to continue to develop my work.

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